{"id":2791,"date":"2017-04-24T23:43:28","date_gmt":"2017-04-24T23:43:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/?p=2791"},"modified":"2019-03-07T05:39:40","modified_gmt":"2019-03-07T05:39:40","slug":"moving-a-large-rose","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/?p=2791","title":{"rendered":"Moving a Large Rose"},"content":{"rendered":"

The message for today is about the benefit of study before action. This report happily does not include a disastrous mistake resulting from a lack of preparation.<\/p>\n

My occasion for garden research involves transplanting a large rose.<\/p>\n

A large rose can be an asset in the garden when it is in a place where it grows well and looks good. Occasionally, however, a rose that has been growing for years in a suitable location needs to be relocated. Reasons for transplanting an established rose usually involve landscaping issues: wrong color, need the space for a different plant, too close to a walkway, too big for the space, etc. Other reasons might have cultural factors related to soil quality or sun exposure.<\/p>\n

In my garden, the plant at issue is a Dortmund rose. This is a large climber that the American Rose Society has rated at 9.2 (\u201cOutstanding\u201d), in recognition of its glossy green foliage, crimson red single blossoms with a white eye, vigor, hardiness, and disease resistance. It is a popular and well-known variety hybridized in 1955 by The House of Kordes in Germany.<\/p>\n

\"dortmund_cluster_1024x768<\/a><\/p>\n

It has been growing for several years in my garden on an arbor gate. Like all roses, it thrives in full sun, but it is being overshadowed by the growth of a very large Pittosporum tree. The Dortmund would produce an abundance of its gorgeous blooms if it were in full sun.<\/p>\n

At the same time, the time has come to complete another large arbor, elsewhere in the garden. That work has been scheduled and should be completed within a month\u2019s time. The new arbor, in the middle of the rose garden, would be a fine location for a climbing rose, and a good, sunny home for the Dortmund.<\/p>\n

My Internet search on moving a large rose soon yielded the different procedures for transplanting during dormant and non-dormant periods. Early spring (about now) is the non-dormant or growing period, and still an acceptable time for this task.<\/p>\n

The most important preparation for moving a rose as it is growing is to irrigate it generously, to ensure that its cells\u00a0are maximally full of water before cutting its roots.<\/p>\n

Treatment with liquid B1 transplanting fertilizer has been recommended as well, but field trials reported in Sunset magazine have demonstrated that plain water works better!<\/p>\n

Suggested supplementary treatments include Green Light Liquid Root Stimulator, and Dr. Earth Organic #2 Starter Fertilizer with beneficial microbes. These would be worth including.<\/p>\n

Other preparatory steps include cutting down much of the top growth to reduce demand on the roots and to make moving the plant easier.<\/p>\n

To transplant a shrub rose, cut the top growth to twelve-to-eighteen inches. A review of best practices for pruning a climbing rose, however, suggests retaining long, flexible canes to be trained to grow as horizontally as possible. Horizontal canes promote the development of vertical, bloom-producing shoots.<\/p>\n

As soon as the new arbor is completed, it\u2019s rose transplanting time!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The message for today is about the benefit of study before action. This report happily does not include a disastrous mistake resulting from a lack of preparation. My occasion for garden research involves transplanting a large rose. A large rose … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[171],"tags":[10,22,5],"class_list":["post-2791","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-essays-2017","tag-cultivation","tag-landscaping","tag-roses"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2WCVL-J1","jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2791","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2791"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2791\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2793,"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2791\/revisions\/2793"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2791"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2791"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/ongardening.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2791"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}